The Ghost Horses of Palo Duro Canyon

The Legend:

Carved into the flat, dusty west Texas landscape lies a hidden wonder of such magnitude, it leaves visitors in awe. Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo offers breathtaking views of colorful rock formations, deep sloping walls, and an abundance of native trees and grasses. Hailed as the second largest canyon in the United States, right behind the Grand Canyon, the gorge encompasses a 29,000-acre state park that offers a variety of activities as well as a seasonal outdoor musical.

Amidst all the grandeur, one might overlook the historical significance of the area. The location marks the turning point in the Red River Indian Wars which took place one hundred forty years ago. The final skirmish ended with few human casualties but shamefully resulted in the massacre of 1,400 Comanche horses.

In September 1874, several Native tribes – Arapaho, Cheyenne, Kiowa, and Comanche – gathered in the canyon’s vast lands to hunt buffalo and stockpile supplies for the upcoming winter. The Comanche were great equestrians, perhaps the best of all American Indian tribes. They were fearless when mounted atop their horses and considered the animals an extension of their spirit. That bravado aided their ability to elude relocation efforts by the U.S. government.

Col. Ranald Mackenzie of the 4th U.S. Cavalry was determined to track down the “renegade” Indians and transport them to contained reservations. Using Tonkawa scouts, he located the Native camps on the canyon floor. Mackenzie’s high vantage point at the rim proved advantageous for scouting but posed a problem for his attack. There was no way to reach the bottom of the canyon without being seen. Eventually, one of the scouts discovered a narrow path leading through cracks and crevices which ended at the canyon floor.

As Mackenzie’s troops carefully descended the steep trail, a Comanche night watch spotted the soldiers and fired a warning shot. The Indians rushed from their camps, surprised and ill-prepared for battle. The hopelessness of their situation soon became apparent and led to a frenzied reaction. Many Natives scrambled up the canyon walls, saving their lives but forfeiting their supplies. Mackenzie and his men confiscated their food, as well as two thousand horses.

Col. Mackenzie feared the Comanche would regroup and steal back their horses, thereby escaping his troops again. He wasn’t about to return empty-handed. After giving some of the horses to the Tonkawa scouts as payment for their help, he ordered his men to shoot and kill the rest. Blood flowed freely as the ponies lay dead or dying in the brutal massacre. It is said the soldiers made a game of the slaughter, laughing through the process.

The animal carcasses were left where they fell. After predators and vultures consumed the meat, sun-bleached bones littered the canyon for years. But some say the spirits of those horses, so deeply connected to their Comanche riders, could not find rest.

Today, many visitors to the canyon have reported hearing the thunderous echo of stampeding horses late at night. Some attest to having seen the ghostly herd charging through the shadows, destined to run for their lives throughout eternity. These spectral horses, it seems, continue to embody the indomitable spirit of the Comanche, refusing to be forgotten or conquered even in death.

The Story:  WAR PONY

Nocoma stuck close to his father’s side as the Comanche men prepared for the season’s final hunt. He was sure Big Elk would include him this time. After all, he was ten years old – almost a man. But as his mother gently pulled him away, he knew it was not to be. When Big Elk rode past, the boy turned his back, refusing to say goodbye.

Big Elk paused, his heart heavy with conflict. He knew how much his son yearned to join the hunt, but the boy was small for his age and had yet to master the horsemanship skills for which Comanche was known. Or so Big Elk thought. Still, a part of him wondered if he was underestimating his son’s determination.

Nocoma was a stubborn, willful child who often challenged authority. He had spent the last six weeks secretly preparing for the hunt, aware of his father’s concerns and vowing to win his respect. While searching the herd for a suitable mount, he spied a small black and white pony barely visible through the mass of larger animals. Even though the horse was shorter than the rest, Nocoma liked the way he tossed his head, refusing to let his size contain his spirit.

The pony’s head shot up as Nocoma weaved a path to his side. A long swath of black mane draped over his forehead, covering half the white face. He snorted and dug at the earth as if throwing down a challenge. Nocoma smiled. This would be his mount. He showed courage. The horse was too small for most Comanche which gave them something in common – they were both outcasts.

Each morning, Nocoma led the pony to a remote box canyon away from his village. It was dangerous to stray so far from camp since the white soldiers frequented the area in search of Plains Indians. If caught, he’d be sent to a reservation or worse, the white man’s school, never to see his family again. The prospects were dire but proving to his father that he was a skilled horseman was worth the risk.

Nocoma spent the first few days wooing the pony with grass and berries, gradually building a fragile bond – until he tried to slide across the horse’s back. The animal delighted in unseating the boy and continued to do so time and time again. Yet, he never ran away when Nocoma fell. Over the next two weeks, Nocoma earned the horse’s trust. They spent hours riding through the canyon. The boy marveled at the pony’s speed and agility as well as a fearlessness that matched his own. He named the horse Spirit.

Nocoma kept his newly learned skills to himself even though he was sure his insides would burst from excitement. He planned to display his riding abilities on the day before the hunt. Unfortunately, he didn’t get the chance. Big Elk and the warriors left two days early at daybreak, taking extra horses with them. He pleaded with his father to let him join the hunt but Big Elk was preoccupied with gathering weapons and never heard the boy’s words.

After the men left, Nocoma waited until his mother was busy before creeping from the camp with his bow and arrows. He took off on foot, tracking the riders as they made their way deeper into the canyon. If nothing else, he would claim Spirit as his own and ride back to their village.

When Big Elk spied Nocoma huddled near the horses, his first inclination was to punish the lad. Part of him was impressed the boy had traveled so far on foot, however, so he told the other warriors and older youth to ignore his son, hoping it would convince Nocoma to return to camp. It didn’t.

That night, when it became apparent he would not be fed with the rest of the hunters, Nocoma fashioned a snare and caught a rabbit. He then roasted it on a spit. Big Elk was pleased with his son’s resourcefulness yet still worried the boy could not keep up during the rigorous hunt.

He stood in the shadows watching Nocoma make a bed from dried leaves and twigs, placing it behind a boulder near the horses. After Nocoma fell asleep, Big Elk crept to his son’s side and covered him with a blanket. A soft whinny echoed from the darkness. Big Elk glanced up and saw the pony’s wary stance.

“You know this boy?” The horse snorted. “I see. Well, he needs a brave horse to protect him. A wise horse who knows what to do when his inexperience gets him in trouble. Is that you?”

Another whinny. The animal inched forward, nuzzling Nocoma’s hand with a velvet nose.

Big Elk raised a brow, eyeing the black and white pony with a disbelieving scowl. “You are both too small. I doubt either of you could stop a strong gust of wind.” His voice softened. “But perhaps together, your valor will surpass us all. I hope that is the case.”

The next morning, Nocoma mounted Spirit and was allowed to ride with the hunting party. He ignored the snickers and snide remarks from the men, determined to prove them wrong. That afternoon, they located a herd of buffalo grazing in a vast meadow. Beyond the serene scene, craggy rock walls towered on either side of a box canyon. The men argued over who would start a stampede to drive the bison through the slot. It was a treacherous task. A rider could easily fall from his mount and become trampled by the massive beasts.

While the warriors engaged in debate, Nocoma jumped onto Spirit’s back. Leaning forward, he whispered in the pony’s ear. “The buffalo are not as fast and sure-footed as you, my friend. We can do this. It will bring great honor to us both.”

Digging his heels into the horse’s side, Nocoma held on as Spirit galloped toward the herd. Pounding hooves drowned out Big Elk’s cries as the boy and his horse circled the grazing buffalo, startling them into action. The enormous animals charged toward the back of the canyon, engulfing Nocoma and Spirit in a thick, brown cloud.

Nocoma’s trembling fingers grabbed a handful of the pony’s mane as he fought to hold on. “We must reach the canyon wall, Spirit. They’re going to trample us.” Fear echoed in Nocoma’s voice but it was directed more toward the brave animal than himself.

Spirit ran alongside the stampeding buffalo, gradually easing his way to the outside. Spying a niche between two boulders, the boy guided his horse toward it. They both gasped for air as the bison rumbled by.

Before the dust settled, Nocoma heard gunfire and knew the hunting party had followed them. It was short-lived glory. Looking up, he saw Big Elk riding toward him, an angry scowl on his face. Certain he would be sent home in disgrace, Nocoma slid to the ground and hugged the pony’s neck for what he assumed would be the last time.

“You were brave today, Spirit. As brave as any horse I’ve ever seen. I’ll never forget you.”

Big Elk dismounted and approached his son, stopping a few inches in front of him. Nocoma bowed his head, ready to take his punishment. To his surprise, his father pulled him into a tight embrace. “You rode like a Comanche today. I don’t know who taught you such skills but you learned well.”

“It . . . it wasn’t me. Spirit did it all.”

Big Elk looked down at his son and smiled. “If that is the case, your pony risked his life for you. This horse will never belong to another warrior. He shares your heart. Your soul. He will always be yours.” The older Comanche ruffled his son’s hair. “Now, come. We must prepare the buffalo meat to take back to the village.”

There was a great celebration when the Comanche returned to camp. Nocoma joined the men around the campfire, welcomed as an equal. The air was thick with the scent of roasting meat and the sounds of laughter and storytelling. But beneath the joy, an undercurrent of unease rippled through the older warriors. They had noticed increased activity from the white soldiers in recent weeks, and some feared it was only a matter of time before conflict found them.

As the night wore on, Big Elk pulled Nocoma aside. “You’ve proven yourself today, my son,” he said, his voice a mix of pride and concern. “But remember, a true warrior must always be prepared for battle, even in times of peace.”

Nocoma nodded solemnly, not fully grasping the weight of his father’s words. As he drifted off to sleep that night, his dreams were filled with images of thundering hooves and the exhilaration of the hunt.

In the pre-dawn hours, a cry of alarm shattered the peaceful silence of the camp. Colonel Ranald Mackenzie of the U.S. Cavalry had found the narrow trail descending into the canyon, the break he’d been waiting for – a chance to finally gather up the remaining Plains Indians and relocate them to Fort Sill, Oklahoma.

“We’ll follow this path and surprise them. Our scouts have already sighted the Comanche’s camp,” Mackenzie ordered his men.

Chaos erupted as soldiers surrounded the vast village and opened fire. Big Elk jumped to his feet, ordering his wife and son to climb the upper walls of the canyon. He and the rest of the men fought off the attacking army to allow their families a chance to escape.

When it became obvious they were surrounded, the Comanche along with Kiowa and Cheyenne, scurried up the cliffs. It would give them a better vantage point to launch a gun and arrow assault on the soldiers.

Nocoma found his father a short time later loading his rifle behind a large boulder. “I’ll stay and help fight the white eyes.”

Big Elk shook his head. “There are too many.”

“We have to do something! We can’t just let them destroy our village.” He peeked around the edge of the boulder, lips thinning as the soldiers and Tonkawa scouts tore down teepees and set them ablaze.

Big Elk’s body sagged against the rock. “The white demons have taken everything. Our food and shelter, our horses, our land . . .”

“We’ll fight them, father. We’ll get it back.”

Big Elk stared at the rifle in his hands. “We are Comanche. Without our horses, we are nothing.”

A shot rang out. Nocoma eased around the boulder for a better view. He couldn’t believe his eyes. The soldiers were killing the horses. Frantically scanning the herd, he spied Spirit. The small black and white pony stomped the ground, whinnying as a horse fell next to him, writhing twice before lying still.

“They’re shooting them! Father . . . we have to stop this!”

Big Elk swallowed and looked away. “How? We must go to their reservation. There is nothing we can do but live out our days under the white man’s rule.”

“No! I hate the white man! I won’t go . . .and I won’t let them shoot Spirit.”

Nocoma darted away before his father could stop him. He scampered down the canyon wall and then slipped into a grove of trees. For once, his small size was an asset. No one noticed the boy crouched in the thick undergrowth. He stayed there for a few minutes, cringing each time a rifle shot rang out.

Horses cried out in fear and pain. He blinked away the tears and crawled to the edge of the clearing. Comanche ponies littered the ground, some writhing as they took their last breath but most were already dead. The rest were wide-eyed, panicked as the soldiers sat on wagons, laughing and taking aim.

Nocoma spotted Spirit toward the back. He was shorter so the larger animals shielded him from bullets – for now. The soldiers were shooting the horses in front and not paying attention to the outer perimeter. Taking a deep breath, Nocoma belly crawled into the herd, stealthily moving between the horses until he reached Spirit.

“I won’t let them shoot you,” he whispered, wrapping his arms around the pony’s neck.

Spirit nuzzled him and whinnied but it was low, as if defeated. The horse knew. He sensed death around him and realized his fate was sealed.

Nocoma wiped a tear from his cheek. “We don’t have to die like this. We can meet the great spirit as warriors.” He glanced at the soldiers lined up on the other side of the herd. “Are you ready for one last ride, War Pony?”

Spirit tossed his head and reared up, snorting and pawing the ground. Nocoma spit onto the dirt, then wiped large stripes of red earth across his face. He repeated the marking down Spirit’s nose. It wasn’t black paint like most Comanche wore in battle but it would have to do.

Swinging himself onto the pony’s back, Nocoma let out a loud whoop as his fingers closed around Spirit’s mane. They took off in a gallop. He was oblivious to the soldier’s laughs as he closed his eyes, thrusting his arms into the air. He matched his breathing to the rise and fall of Spirit’s pace. They were one. One heart. One soul.

Nocoma and Spirit raced toward the soldiers. Oddly, the herd formed a line on either side as if guarding the boy and his mount from the barrage of bullets. As they neared the wagons a sharp pain pierced Nocoma’s chest.

He slumped across the pony’s neck. “I love you. We’ll always be together.” Spirit leaped into the air, and for a moment, it seemed as if they were flying, free from the chaos and death below. Free.

In the years that followed, many visitors to Palo Duro Canyon would report strange occurrences. Some swore they heard the thunderous echo of stampeding horses late at night. Others claimed to have seen a ghostly herd charging through the shadows, led by a small black and white pony carrying a young Comanche warrior.

Under the veil of night, when eyes and mind strain to make sense of things that defy logic, it’s easier to blame one’s imagination.

Yet for those who know the story of Nocoma and Spirit, these sightings serve as a poignant reminder of the unbreakable bond between the Comanche and their horses, a connection that transcends even death.

An original short story by Debra Sanders.

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